Armenia - Yerablur and Genocide Memorial

Our last day in Yerevan was an emotional one, for many reasons.  We were all sad to leave Hayastan,  and we visited Yerablur, the military cemetary, and Tsitsernakaberd, the Genocide Memorial.

At Yerablur, we got a tour with two military men, who told us stories of the recent wars of Armenia and NK.  Yerablur is the eternal home of 730 soldiers who were martyred during wars.  It was so emotional to see how many young men fought and gave their lives, some in their teens.

Baron Khosrov at Monte's tombstone

Church (shaped like a bullet)

Afterwards we went to the Genocide memorial.  We were originally supposed to come here in the first few days of our trip, however, on our way here, our bus had broken down, so we came on the last day of the tour.

There are 12 blocks at the memorial, looking inward towards an eternal flame, symbolizing the 12 provinces from then Western Armenia where the genocide and ethnic cleansing of Armenians have occurred.

Genocide Memorial

Me at the eternal flame

This was a very emotional day.  I couldn't hold back my tears at the cemetery and at the memorial.  I was also so sad to be leaving Hayastan.

I had an amazing time in Armenia.  I am hoping that I will be going back to visit soon...  It's been a couple of weeks since I've been back but I still think about my days there every day.

Armenia - Harichavank Monastery & Amberd Fortress

Harichavank Monastery is believed to have been founded in the 7th century.  To be honest, there isn't too much I remember from our visit here, except that evidently it's really beautiful.

Amberd Fortress is believed to have been one of the primary defenses for the perimeter of capital Ani (presently in current Turkey).  It's believed to have been built in the 10th or 11th centuries, and was conquered by Mongols in 1236 and destroyed and was never rebuilt.

This is where I was able to buy a couple of duduks, one for me, and one for a friend.  The other day I tried to play mine...  let's just say I'm not very good at it.  :)

Armenia - NOY Cognac Factory

Back in Yerevan, we visited the Shengavit Kindergarten and the St. Mary Maternity Hospital, the projects that Armenia Fund has helped fund.

Then we headed out to Noy Cognac Factory for a tour and cognac tasting.  While we were there, there was a group of young Iranian guys there for a tour of their own, with a Farsi speaking Armenian tour guide.  Our tour guide spoke Armenian, so I didn't understand half of the stories, but it was a fun place to see.

A depiction of Noah with Mt. Ararat

The bar helps hold the wall intact

Tasting a $6,000 cognac

Inside the cognac factory

Cognac tasting - 20 year old cognac tastes much better than a 10 year old cognac

We did our cognac tasting along with the young group of Iranians.  After the first taste, they started singing songs in Farsi and they were having a good old time.  Then in competition, our tour members started singing in Armenian, and the Iranians cheered for us.  I hope that they had a good time in Armenia.  In Iran, they told one of our tour members, they have little freedoms, and they were enjoying their time in Yerevan.

Armenia - Tatev Monastery & Trip back to Yerevan

Oh the morning after...  too much drinking and partying...  I was actually feeling OK in the morning.  After all, I only had 3 or 4 shots...  of 70% proof oghi (Armenian vodka).  So maybe I wasn't so OK but the truth didn't come out until much later...

We checked out of Hotel Armenia and drove two hours towards Tatev Tramway...  The road again out of Karabagh was pretty bumpy.  This is when I started feeling pretty sick.  When the bus got a flat tire again, I tried to let it out, but I wasn't able to.  Later on, I had to make the bus stop just for me, and I got sick on the side of the road.  After that I felt much better, but pretty hungry.

We only had one planned stop on the way back to Yerevan, and that was Tatev Monastery from the 9th century, located near Tatev village.  The only way to get to it is using Wings of Tatev tram.

Wings of Tatev Tram

At first I didn't think I was feeling well enough to brave the tram ride, however, I knew I would regret it for the rest of my life if I didn't go.  And after seeing how safe and secure it was, I wasn't worried.  Wings of Tatev is almost 6km long and it is the longest reversible aerial tramway.  It took about 10 minutes for us to reach the monastery.

A view from the tram

At one point during the trip, the tram whoops down really quickly to the lowest part of the plateau, stalls for a few seconds, and whoops back up, which got everyone's heart rates elevated.  But the view was really beautiful.  I just wish I was feeling well enough to enjoy it more.

Taken from Wikipedia (because I was only half listening to the tour guide and was too busy taking photos):  According to tradition, Tatev Monastery is named after Eustateus, a disciple of St. Thaddeus the Apostle, who preached and was martyred in this region.  His name has evolved to Tatev.  Popular etymology includes a legend telling of an event that is tied to the construction of the main church, where an apprentice secretly climbs to the top of its steeple intending to place a cross of his own design.  However, the apprentice is spotted by his master during his descent.  Shocked by his discovery, the apprentice loses his foothold and falls into the abyss as he calls upon God to grant him wings, which, in Armenian is:  "Ta Tev."

A view of Tatev Monastery

View from Tatev Monastery

The bishop inside the church gave our tour troup a blessing but he held his hand over my head much longer than everyone else...  I'm guessing because he could see on my face that I was not feeling great.  I definitely appreciated that so much.

Our group got blessed by the bishop

The 17th century Tatev Oil Mill primarily produced flax seed oil and was the main provider of oil to several surrounding villages of the time.  The oil mill was only recently discovered and restored in 2010.

Tatev Oil Mill

View of Tatev from the tram

Afterwards we headed to our much needed lunch.  I didn't have anything in my system so as soon as we got there, I started gobbling.  I think this is when the videographer Tigran told me that I'm a good eater.

The trip back to Yerevan was way too long...  We were all so exhausted and I immediately went to sleep as soon as we arrived at the hotel.

Artsakh - Gandzasar Monastery & Last Night in Karabagh

We left Shushi and headed to the Martakert region for our next stop, Gandzasar (Treasure Mountain) Monastery, constructed in the early 13th century, was the center of an Armenian independence movement in the 18th century and currently is the seat of the Archbishop of the Artsakh Diocese of the Armenian Apostolic Church.

The monastery was damaged during the war with Azerbaijan, as can be seen from the shell that's still embedded in its wall.

A view of the Gandzasar Dome

We left Gandzasar Monastery and headed back to the hotel.  That evening, we met with the Prime Minister of Artsakh, H.E. Arayik Harutyunyan, who spoke with us for an hour, gave us updates on the progress Karabagh, the issues he's working on and answered our questions.  He gave us each watches inscripted by his office as a souvenir from our trip to Karabagh.

This was our last night in Artsakh so we went to dinner and we drank and we danced...  It was one of the most fun evenings I've ever had.

Drinking with Irina Lazarian (well, she wasn't drinking)

Artsakh - Stepanakert Projects & Shushi Air Base

Our trip to Karabagh was quite tiring.  As soon as we got to Armenia Hotel, I checked into my room and went to bed.

The next morning, our first stop was Stepanakert School #11, which is the best school in all of Armenia.  Being there with Armenia Fund, they really want us to know that the money we donate is used very well on the selected projects, helping the Armenians in Armenia and in Artsakh improve their lives.  It was very impressive to see the projects first hand.

Stepanakert School #11 - Best school in Armenia & Artsakh

Right next to the school, there's Ghazanchetsots Monastery/Church, which I'm happy we were able to stop by.  I must say, the churches in Armenia and Artsakh are so beautiful.

Ghazanchetsots Monastery

Ghazanchetsots Monastery Bell Tower

After visiting the school, we went to the Stepanakert Elderly Home.  In the old building, there are about 70-80 residents.  The new building is still under construction.  When we were there, some of the elderly were outside, getting some fresh air.  You can imagine what I felt being there...  Although I was happy they will live in better conditions, free of charge, they are still alone.  Some of them either have no children or have lost their children as casualties in the war.  I took no photos at the elderly home.  I will probably forever remember them in memory and think of them often.

As an extra surprise stop, we went to the Shushi Air Base.  It was such a treat for us to visit with the soldiers there, and find out what they do in a day, and share a meal with them.

Eating the soldier's meal

Baron Khosrov with the soldiers

Me outside the Air Base

Artsakh - Amaras Monastery and AF Projects

On our first day in Artsakh, we visited many of the Armenia Fund projects.  These projects are supported by many Armenia Fund donors all over the world, and seeing them first hand was very reassuring that the money is being used in the most needed areas of the communities.

Togh Art School

Togh Art School - Student art

Martuni Regional Hospital Project

After visiting the projects, we made our way to Amaras Monastery, which is the oldest monastery in Karabagh.  Mesrop Mashtots, the creator of the Armenian alphabet has taught here 1600 years ago.  He created the alphabet to translate the Bible from Greek, since most Armenians did not understand Greek.  Baron Khosrov kept saying that while many humans were still living on trees, we were creating manuscripts...  At first it was funny...  Then I realized it's true!

The church is named St. Gregoris, in honor of the grandson of St. Gregory the Illuminator, and if I remember correctly, his tomb is located here.

Armenia - Noravank Monastery & Karahunj Stonehendge

The next stop on our way to NK was Noravank Monastery which dates back to 13th century, happily situated in a rocky canyon setting, which makes it one of the favorites among Armenian monasteries.

Noravank means "new monastery" which has new meaning after it has been completely rebuilt.  As can be seen all over Armenia, tuff stone is used to rebuild monasteries, which blends in perfectly with the natural settings.

It has two flights of really narrow steps that leads into the main hall of St. Astvatsatsin Church.  Because of lack of time and the crowds, none of the tour members attempted the steps, EXCEPT for Baron Khosrov!

There are many khatchkars in the churchyard, however, the most significant one is a 1308 khatchkar by Master Momik, for its fine carving on the entire slab.

A view from the Noravank Monastery complex of the canyon setting.

After lunch we made a welcome change on the agenda, a stop at Karahunj, the Armenian Stonehendge, in the Sisian region.

Referred to also as Zorats Karer, this circular arrangement of stones is believed to be a celestial observatory from the Bronze Age, making it much older than England's Stonehendge.

The trip to NK was pretty eventful - including a flat tire on the bus caused by poor road conditions and the Iran earthquake which we felt during a pit stop in Sisian region.  Also, I had forgotten my passport at the hotel reception in Yerevan, which I thought would be a problem when entering NK, however, being with Armenia Fund, it was no problem going thru the border.  We also made some stops to buy fruit and wine and vodka from road-side vendors, which we drank on the bus.  Some of us suffered the consequences of our actions:  too much vodka and bumpy roads don't mix!!!  

We stopped at the NK sign at the border for photos, however, there was a puppy where we stopped, and it was so playful that I completely missed the photo op at the border and played with him the entire time.  He had a bad eye but was so sweet and playful.  I got really emotional playing with him, because he was all alone on the side of the road...  It broke my heart.  I wished that there was something I could have done.

We arrived in Stepanakert, NK, around 9PM and ended the day.

Armenia - Mt. Ararat & Khor Virap Monastery

After 3 days in Yerevan, we checked out of our hotel there to slowly make our way out to Nagorno-Karabagh.  The road trip from Yerevan to NK is about 6 hours, and the road conditions are not so good, however (unlike the trip back) it was a fun trip getting there.

We made the one hour drive to Ararat Valley.  This is the first time we got a good look at Mt. Ararat, even though on clear days, it's supposed to be visible from Yerevan, we were not able to see it.

Mt. Ararat is located in historic Armenia, which is currently Turkey, and is "the spiritual heart of Armenia".  What's not so well known is that Mt. Ararat consists of large peak "Masis" and the small peak "Sis."  Until this trip, I thought the large peak was Ararat and small peak was Masis.  This region is the closest point to Mt. Ararat within Armenia without going into Turkey, which is 35 km away.  The view is just brilliant from this site, and even more so from Khor Virap Monastery, which is in the distance.

A view of small peak "Sis" from the monastery

Our videographer, Tigran and I went up a hill so we could get an overview photo of Khor Virap Monastery.  I was so happy he took me with him because this was the type of shot I was hoping to get and a short hike over a hill allowed us to do so.  The view of Ararat from there was also fantastic.

Khor Virap Monastery is where St. Gregory the Illuminator was imprisoned for 13 years by King Trdat III for the crime of preaching Christianity in Armenia, which was a pagan nation.  The king released him after St. Gregory was able to cure him of a horrible disease and converted Armenia to Christianity in 301 AD, which gives Armenia the distinction of being the first Christian nation.

A few of us went into the dungeon where St. Gregory was imprisoned.  Baron Khosrov was one of the first people down there, of course!  It was so tiny and dark, with a ceiling opening for air entry, that it was hard to imagine how St. Gregory survived in there for so long.  One cannot help but wonder about what it must be like to live for a purpose greater than your own life.